Beginning of the End

Burnside Bridge

“As he died to make men holy, let us die to make men free.”

- Battle Hymn of the Republic, lyrics Julia Ward Howe, 1861

The Harper’s Ferry Road snakes beside the Potomac River and is a 13-mile motorcyclist joyride. Leaving Harper’s Ferry on Big Red, I find orange and black Detour signs standing like Trick or Treat sentinels - I got the trick. Headed to Sharpsburg, MD following the orange and black, I miss 4 miles of the Harpers Ferry Road. I'll be back - another ride for another day.

From Sharpsburg it is a short jaunt north to Antietam Battlefield - where the Civil War should have ended. On September 13, 1862, Union officers found a copy of Confederate Commander Robert E. Lee’s battleplans wrapped in 3 cigars. Union Commander George McClellan, timid and cautious, dithered.

On September 17 the battle erupted, and in the southern field of battle, General Ambrose Burnside was to advance across a bridge over Antietam Creek. Burnsides 14,000 troops were bottlenecked at the bridge by 450 Georgian Confederates on the bluff overlooking the bridge. Troops could have waded across the creek and forded downstream, but that idea was lost in the chaos of battle. The bridge was christened Burnsides Bridge.

Finally, the troops pushed the confederates off the bluff, but the damage was done. The delay allowed confederate troops to get in position to fight to a tactical draw. September 17 is the bloodiest single day in American History - 23,000 casualties.

The next morning Lee prepared for a Union assault that never happened. Lee retreated across the Potomac to VA and McClellan failed to pursue sighting equipment shortages and lack of forces. On November 5 Lincoln relieved McClellan and replaced him with - Ambrose Burnside.

Although a tactical draw, the battle was a major victory for the Union. On September 22 Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation freeing the slaves in confederate states effective January 1, 1863. Based on the battle’s outcome and Lincoln’s proclamation, France and England refused to recognize the Confederate States of America. These events marked the beginning of the end of the Confederacy.

Leaving Sharpsburg, my mind, like Big Red’s engine, is humming with the day’s visits – two small towns synonymous with freedom. Harper’s Ferry - the beginning of the Civil War. Sharpsburg - the beginning of the end. Although Big Red is headed east toward home, there is another small town 48 miles due north – Gettysburg.

Another ride for another day.

How about you? Where did you visit? Share a story!

2nd Helping

Going there - Antietam National Battlefield is well preserved on pastoral land. A temporary Visitors Center is open while a new center is under Construction. I took Big Red on the 8.5-mile paved driving tour with 11 stops. The tour meanders by storied sites such as the Dunker Church, The Cornfield, Bloody Lane, Antietam National Cemetery, as well as Burnside Bridge. The tour is open to cars, motorcycles, and bicycles. Numerous hiking trails of various lengths are also available.

The lyrics of the “Battle Hymn of the Republic” were written by Julia Ward Howe and music was adapted from John Brown’s Body – see part 1 of this Civil War Trilogy Rides - The Soul of America

Civil War Freedom Tour - Summer of 2023: